Ann Bytes the Big Apple: Walking in Harlem

Diary Entry for Saturday, May 21, 2011

Lazy morning. Slept in late and enjoyed it. Got up and ready for the day and then took another nap! Grabbed some lunch from the cafeteria before they closed. I think the swelling has gone down in my ankles.

By 2:30 pm I got out the door – heading down to Harlem. I have been told it is safe – as long it is day time. There was an exhibition of Patchwork quilts by Africans of India at the Schomburg Center at the Harlem-NY Public Library, on 135^th and Malcom X Blvd. Another opportunity to take the buses so off I went.

I always ask those at the bus station where the buses are going. Most times I am lucky and get a friendly sort. An older African-American lady guided me through the stops. While on the bus I asked her if the red brick buildings were considered the “projects” that I had read about. She assured me that they were part of “The Projects.” With there being green grass, the buildings are looking decent – but I haven’t been inside!

So I get to my destination and enjoy the exhibition of quilts. They weren’t ones we are familiar with, as the women use old saris, and any other bits of cloth they had. A true pieced-quilt. I was taking pictures of them, and had even asked if it would be OK, but just as I rounded the corner, the guard told me I couldn’t. Darn, I have all those pictures!!! Anyway, the quilts were very rudimentary compared to the masterpieces that are created from experienced quilters. But it is their story that makes them unique. Though the tops are varied, the process is the same, geometric shapes pieced together, than using a whole piece of cloth (if available) they are stitched together using a long running stitch. There was no batting that was sandwiched between the fabrics. After thinking about this, they probably don’t need to – they live in India – it doesn’t get too cold there. They use the quilts for decoration or for bedding. They have put into practice, “Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without.”

While there I met an African-American woman who was a quilter. Quilters have a language, bonding is pretty quick – but she was a little stand-offish. But that was OK. She shared with me that she uses African fabrics for quilts – which she purchases from the Netherlands!!! She said the designs are unique and beautiful, Vlisco fabrics.

I went upstairs where they had another exhibition, of photos of the “African-American Renaissance.” They were some beautiful prints from a number of African-American photographers. I thought of Kimmy, hoping some day she would be able to capture people the way these photographers had. There was energy, color, history – all telling a story. There were some older African-American people viewing the photos as well. They were not from NYC, but it was interesting to hear their comments, asking one another, “Do you remember that time?” They had smiles on their faces as they were walking through the exhibition – so did I. I find history of people fascinating.

I was writing down my thoughts about the photos, when the quilting lady from downstairs came up to me. She had pulled out some fabrics that she was telling me about. She had forgotten that she had some pieces in her purse, and wanted to show them to me. She had warmed up by the time she made it upstairs!!! Her name was Carene. She is a retired nurse, has a mother that is 90, a daughter and a granddaughter that is 30 – four generations. She has lived in NYC all her life. She had in her hands a book entitled Crowns. It was a book she had just picked up at the library bookstore about the hats that African-American women had worn through the 20^th century. Talk about hats! These were incredible pieces of design made out of felt, feathers, fabric, flowers and bling!

Carene then told me the story of her mother – that she loves hats. In fact she has 200 of them! She told me that in NYC, when there are women’s day at the church’s or other events, the women look forward to her mother showing up, in anticipation to see what hat she will be wearing. The African-American women dress up for church in NYC. They may do it in other cities – but in NYC – it is expected! Carene told the story of her mother’s recent trip to St. Louis and the hat shop. Her mother was looking into the hat shop and the owner noticed her. He opened the door, invited her in, offered her a chair and proceeded to show her “the” hat, as well as several more. She ended up buying three hats as glorious as the others in her collection.

I asked Carene if her mother would allow someone to see her hats. It was a very quick, negative response. I would have loved to have seen her hats. What a story that would have been.

After I toured the exhibits I started walking down Malcom X Blvd. or Lenox Avenue. Let’s say I was an uncommon visitor on these streets. Got a few smiles, but mainly I was ignored.

The sidewalks are wide on this street, and close to where the Harlem LDS Church building is. Along the curb many older African-American men were lined up, sitting on folding chairs. There would be a boom box playing music, but the men just sat, watching people walk by, or visiting with one another. I wanted to take a picture of them, but when I asked, they said no, so I walked on. There were a few people that had a tent set up with things to sell, those individuals were friendly. There were just a lot of people.

I crossed over 125^th Street, and walked south because I saw some beautiful buildings and wanted to take some pictures. I have been told that there is a resurgence of rebuilding and restoring a lot of the buildings in Harlem. There are a lot of historical buildings. I took pictures of some of the buildings that are in need of repair and those in the process – but again, the camera does not do it justice. One building is St. Mark’s. The gentlemen sitting on the corner said it was a mausoleum. Haven’t been able to confirm that, but it is interesting!